WALKING IN THE TENERIFE PROVINCE OF EL HIERRO

El Hierro (278 sq kms / 107 sq miles) is the smallest and most westerly of the Canary Islands but has some wonderful scenery including pine forests and mountains. There are no resorts and very few beaches. The attraction is to be away from it all and at the end of the world, which it was considered to be before Christopher Columbus discovered America. If you add it to the list of places to walk, you will not be disappointed, and it is notable that over the past three years, the number of hiking trails has been increased. A picture book wonderland takes you through moss encrusted laurel forests which could be straight out of a fairytale. You will have a constant choice from a network of pathways and not expect to see meet anyone else.

You will experience something of what Tenerife was like 30 years ago. Life everywhere is relaxed and quiet. There are no large towns, no industry and no major roads, although European Union money has meant that many of the roads are smooth and new. The south of the island is rather bare and rocky but the north has pine clad high plains, gentle rolling countryside and impressive mountains. A large proportion of the population of 10,500 live in and around the remains of El Golfo, a huge volcanic crater. The crater rim is breathtakingly wild and windy, while in what remains of the crater floor way down below, the days are calm and the land fertile. The islanders' livelihoods come mainly from fishing or agriculture (try the delicious mangoes and pineapples). Mass tourism has yet to arrive here. There are only 10 medium sized hotels and last year barely 60,000 tourists arrived. There are no direct flights, not even from the Spanish mainland, and the natives often refer to their homeland as the forgotten island.

This could soon change, though. El Hierro is due to be marketed as a green destination. The scenery may be part of this but it is planning to be one of a small number of the world's islands to generate its entire power from renewable energies. Three windmills and two hydro-electric power plants are all that is needed to achieve this. The island's tourist authorities have been trying to sell El Hierro as an ecologically friendly island for some time so this will now be promoted strongly. They feel they will have a niche market.

Other examples are that pineapple and banana farmers have been encouraged to change to more ecological methods of cultivation and the small number of island buses use hydrogen for fuel. Another interesting fact is that El Hierro produces an annual 2000 litres of water per square metre, more than eight times the amount of rainwater. This is due to condensation on a variety of trees and plants as the trade winds swirl across the island.

El Hierro is also a magnet for divers. The El Bajon is a pinnacle of underwater rock nearly 100 metres tall and this is considered a mecca for divers of varying abilities. It is also in the bay from which Christopher Columbus anchored before setting off for America in 1492. At that time El Hierro marked the end of the western world which is why the island was known as the prime meridian before the British Empire adopted the Greenwich Meridian in 1864.

Until the Spaniards arrived in 1405, life among the ancient settlers had changed little. These were the Bimbaches, who like their cousins, the Guanches in Tenerife, were descendants from the Berbers of North Africa. One difference, though, was that they were the only early Canarians to distil alcoholic liquor, using laurel berries, a tradition continued with mistela, a wine fortified with sugar and spices.

El Hierro is determined to learn from the mistakes of Tenerife. Tourist guidelines for the next eight years include a pledge to allow new hotels in only a limited number of coastal areas and that these should be of at least four or five star category, with the maximum number of beds not exceeding 2000 overall. Most guests will continue to stay in rented holiday cottages.